Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
